Prelude to Nanda Devi East Expedition 2013: Part III

The Men and their Mountains: a bit about this and a bit about that

“We walked through the streets. It was hot and muggy and sweat poured off us. A deep breath gave no ventilation.... It was the real India-muggy, smelly, with small children pulling at my clothes, and pointing pathetically at their small baby brothers and sisters....” So wrote Peter Boardman in The Shining Mountain (p 27-29).  Peter Boardman was sharing his Delhi experience. In August, 1976, he and Joe Tasker were on their way to make their epic climb of the West Wall of Changabang.

Changabang and kalanka from Deotoli Col. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee, September 2011

Welcome to our lives Peter. Glad, you had to deal with Delhi for a few days only. We are the ‘real Indians’ you see and we live in this muggy, smelly existence. And you know what? It is highly likely that the small children with little brothers and sisters that pulled at your clothes? Yes, those pathetic children, poorest of the poor, they may not be brothers or sisters at all! They were most probably borrowed accessories for the improvement of the art of begging by my fellow countrymen. Always rise for the higher cause. United in corruption, bound by the camaraderie of filth. This is my India today. Alas!

" A nation is advanced in proportion as education and intelligence spread among the masses. The chief cause of India's ruin has been the monopolizing of the whole education and intelligence of the land, by dint of pride and royal authority, among a handful of men. If we were to rise again,we shall have to do it in the same way, i.e. by spreading education among masses. "- Swami Vivekananda

I know, many or most of the western visitors to India, even today, go back to their lives of ‘quality living’ after a short spell of Delhi-Taj Mahal-Jaipur with  some version of the above image or other. I do not blame them. India is not a fast food joint. India is a richer, more complicated story. A bit more subtle than fish and chips and what usually meets ones eyes Peter! Please do not take "Slumdog Millionaire" the movie as the Gita! ( Well, I am glad you did not have to watch it in your times!) Surely, India is more than Chicken Tikka Masala, a butter Naan bread, a Bollywood movie and a Kingfisher Beer! 

By the way, where are you these days? Some of us miss your and Joe’s spirits and your super courageous mountaineering feats! You guys were awesome! Some say you guys vanished on Everest! I do not believe them. You guys are inspiration personified. You do not vanish into thin air! You exist, among many, or may be a handful; and you will be surprised- you live among some of us in this filthy, smelly, pathetic country too!

Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, pic courtesy: www.livefortheoutdoors.com

Wish you could spend a bit more time with us! You know what is more interesting? Delhi is way better! You should have checked out Calcutta! Humidity normally here is so high that one wishes deliverance in the shades of large banyan trees by the river Ganga. But even that wish seems outlandish most of the times these days now, for we have killed almost all of them. The wise old trees are out of our pathetic lives. Salvation is a mirage.

It is end of April and the damp,hazy heat of Kolkata has already reached its prime. Thendup appeared out of a state government run bus. He had been on that tin can for the past 16 hours. He boarded that apology of a long distance coach last evening in Siliguri. It should have been here in down town Kolkata (which the Bengalis so fondly call Esplanade) hours ago. But their driver had precious cargo to deliver door to door and hence the usual and the obvious happens- delay.

Eventually, you will get there and this too shall pass. The bus conductor have been pouring philosophy onto  his heat exhausted yet patient passengers. Surely Thendup looked untouched by the viscous flow of fluid philosophy of the bus conductor. He had all the calm and cool of a hidden glacier. And at that moment, amid all the chaos, above the cacophony of the deafening noise; we both knew it is time to pack our bags again. To the mountains, to the Himalaya, I hummed! The heat, the dust, smoke, noise, people around me did not matter any more. We are off to Kumaun Himalaya, to the sanctuary of the blessed Goddess herself! Nanda Devi's sister summit Sunanda Devi (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunanda_Devi) beckons! Some one told us she is kinder than her elder sister! Less harsh, more welcoming and forgiving. She is more like my mother's sister who can never see anything bad in me and was always loving, caring and gentle. Well, we can only hope and pray!

Goddesses Nanda and Sunanda : http://nainitalgoddess.blogspot.in/2012/11/the-rightful-recognition-of-nanda-devi.html

Nanda Devi 7816m as seen from Deotoli Col over and above the Devisthan ridge. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee, Sep 2011

Oh, we pathetic Bengalis! We do not lose an opportunity to attach our earthly sentiments even to a ruthless mountain such as Nanda Devi East! But pray we shall and pray we must, for famous mountaineers have declared this mountain to be formidable. To reach its top at 7434m, one needs to climb more vertical meters compared to the summit of Everest from its base camp and the only established route by its south ridge is a  lot more technical and demanding climb. No wonder, Tenzing Norgay had declared it to be the most difficult that he had ever done! Many expeditions ( both past and as recent as 2009 and 2012) have failed to even go beyond the Longstaff's Col, or should I say the Nanda Devi Khal.

Sunanda Devi 7434m and its south ridge

Tom Longstaff in his usual boldness had climbed the Nanda Devi Khal back in 1905 and following his clue the daring Poles did the first ascent of Sunanda Devi in 1939. Here is list of expeditions that happened after that:

1939- Polish first ascent
1951- French ( Tenzing Norgay was part of this)
1975- Indo-French
1976-Indo-Jap ( in both '75 and '76 my climbing guru Dorjee Lhatoo summitted Sunanda Devi)
1991- Indo-Rus
1992-Border Security Force
1994-Spanish ( '91 to '94- all very large expeditions- responsible for leaving enormous litter along the south ridge)
1995- Indian-American ( responsible for cleaning a lot of litter left by the previous parties)

And then happened the most spectacular of climb on Sunanda Devi. In 1995, Roger Payne and Julie-Ann Clyma did a truly Longstaff style ascent of the south ridge. Surely their feat is yet to be matched or repeated by any in the Himalayan scene.

There have been a few more large and medium sized expeditions after Roger Payne and Julie-Ann's climb. The Spanish in 2005, Poles and Brits again in 2009. All failed. The only striking and significant attemp in the post Roger Payne era, would be Pete Takeda's light weight and fast attack on the south ridge (2005). Read about the exciting reports of Pete's expedition here: http://www.seattlepi.com/local/article/Proof-of-plutonium-in-climber-s-sample-1232287.php

I personally got inspired by Roger Payne and Julie-Ann's climb and their style. Our effort in this upcoming expedition is to pay our humble tribute to Roger Payne. I am sure Sunanda Devi was not happy when she heard of that stupid avalanche off Mt Maudit!

Roger Payne: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/roger-payne-killed-on-mont-maudit-ed-douglas-looks-back-on-his-life

Mt Maudit in foreground centre right. Mt Blanc behind as seen from top of Mt Blanc du tacul. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee, July 2011

When I say 'we', I mean 4 climbers, 2 climbing sherpas. They are Ananth HV from Bangalore, Suman Guhaneogy from Chandannagar, Alok Das from Kolkata, Thendup Sherpa  and Temba Sherpa from Darjeeling and Anindya Mukherjee from Belurmath, Howrah.

We have a tiny budget, very little time, some experience. We are ready. Our train leaves Kolkata on May 1, 2013. Wish us luck. Pray for our safety and success!

To sum it up again: small expedition, humble tribute to the spirit of Roger Payne and a simple message: NO DESTRUCTIVE DAMS IN THE HIMALAYA~