Friday, April 5, 2013

Prelude to Nanda Devi East Expedition 2013 :Part I


The Award

It was late March and it was yet another hot and humid evening in the suburb of Belur Math in West Bengal. The heat, along with the smoke and dust was in their prohibitive best. On top of that, the humidity was making sure that it takes away enough juice out of me, without wasting any time. A slow, poisonous spell of lethargy was spreading all around. What a climate to live in! To think in an extremely healthy sense of humour, I could wink and say, well, at least, we don’t need to visit a sauna or pay for a steam bath you see! No wonder Bengalis are born intellectuals! Though I personally think it has made us more subnormal than sublime.

I was born here by the river Ganga, a name which the British with their stiff upper lips could never rightly pronounce. I mean, how could they call it ‘Ganges’ for God’s sake? I understand making ‘Kolkata’ sound like ‘Calcutta’; but ‘Ganges’? Come On!

The Ganga. I took my first swimming lessons in it, played soccer by its banks and over the past 10 years have seen the place change and transform into an ugly, unplanned concrete hell and the river turn into a gutter. I hate this place, I do not like the way things have turned out here in the name of development. Yet, this is where I belong. Every time, after spending months in the Himalaya, I long to come back here. I still do. Strange as though it may seem sometimes!

What is it that draws me back here? Is it my attachment towards my family, my parents? That and that only? Or, does my root of a lower middle class Bengali have something to do with it in addition? I guessed and I wondered.

That evening, I was coming out of my dentist’s chamber after yet another long session of a root canal treatment. Pain and anaesthetics were having their own conversation and I was lost in my arguments around this existence. No matter how much I tried to focus my thoughts on the upcoming expeditions-their planning and logistics; my mind wanted to stay back in a lethargic cave. It was then my phone rang.

It was a call from Rajesh Gadgil. Rajesh, a mountaineer based in Mumbai, is a warm, enthusiastic, down to earth and confident person to talk to. Anytime, anywhere. He is also the Honorary Editor of the Himalayan Journal. It was a pleasant surprise to get his call after a not so pleasant session in the dentist’s chamber.

What’s up? He asked in his usual jovial manner and spirit. I tried but, could not sound even half as positive as Rajesh while replying. Rajesh broke the news! Boss, this is not the time to feel low, you should be making preparations for other things! You have won the first Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering! You have to come to Mumbai on 30th March for the award function! 


Wow! I was speechless for a few moments and wanted to remain so for some time I guess. Cherish this moment in silence rather than shout and celebrate out loud! Being loud is just not me! I have always been a little reserved when it came to expressing elation! And this award is like reaching a Himalayan summit, you are happy, but not celebrating yet as you still have to get back down safely to the base camp. 

Yes indeed, our research, planning, team effort and all the hard work to reach the 'impregnable' Zemu Gap' from south is recognized! I do not climb mountains for awards and accolades, but this form and gesture of recognition seemed nice at that very moment and that made me smile in silence! What could be a better prelude to Nanda Devi East than this? Indeed the Lord is kind!

But, silence is something  that would not happen then, as on the phone on the other side already was Nandini Purandare, the Honoray Secretary of the Himalayan Club, breaking the news to me in a more elaborate manner followed by the indomitable Divyesh Muni and then the legendary Harish Kapadia himself. Words of congratulations flowed freely. Man, this is serious, I thought, while trying to find the right words to reply. After the phone calls, I wanted to grab a beer somewhere but quickly remembered that my dentist have prohibited me from eating or even drinking for the next one hour. #@!! ~!##)(

Right after the phone calls were over,walking down the street to my home, I felt this award is a solemn and timely reminder of humility that we learn from the Himalaya and have just reinforced my beliefs in going to the mountains without bravado, with safety and knowledge. Why so? Well, just for the simple and singular reason of the name Jagdish C. Nanavati should explain it all, at least to the Indian mountaineering community. And exactly that is what makes this award so special and distinctive! 

( link to the first JCN Award: http://www.himalayanclub.org/jagdish-nanavati-award-for-excellence-in-mountaineering/ )

I felt thankful to the distinguished Jury, the Himalayan Club, and of course the Nanavati family for instituting this award for Indian mountaineering expeditions. I am sure this is going to be the most coveted award for all serious mountaineers of India in the coming years. I have just become part of that history by being the first ever recipient of it. Amazing!  I am inspired, encouraged, humbled, indebted!
Jagdish Nanavati 1928-2011
About JCN: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/jagdish-nanavati-1928-2011


It was then I decided to dedicate this award. This award is not mine. It belongs to the man without whom I may have never ventured out to the mountains! I decided to dedicate my first award in the field of mountaineering to my uncle, Sujal Mukherjee. Sujal was a West Bengal mountaineer who took part in 25 Himalayan expeditions starting 1965 to 1989. He left this world in a bit of hurry in 1994, at the age of 62 only. I miss him. I knew his and Jagdish Nanavati’s spirits would be shaking hands tonight.
Me with my Uncle Sujal Mukherjee in 1973 during a family trek in Garhwal


Before closing this post I must also add that the award included a cash prize of Rs. 51000/. This indeed came as a blessing, a helping hand to our upcoming project on Nanda Devi East (7434m) as we are still struggling to get enough funds for our semi alpine style, light weight attempt on the south ridge of the famous and formidable mountain of Kumaun Himalaya. 

Any help is welcome, and we will try our best to reciprocate our kind donors/sponsors with photographs/ write ups/ blogs/facebook as necessary and as applicable. We leave Kolkata on May 1, 2013. 

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