Prelude to Nanda Devi East Expedition 2013: Part III

The Men and their Mountains: a bit about this and a bit about that

“We walked through the streets. It was hot and muggy and sweat poured off us. A deep breath gave no ventilation.... It was the real India-muggy, smelly, with small children pulling at my clothes, and pointing pathetically at their small baby brothers and sisters....” So wrote Peter Boardman in The Shining Mountain (p 27-29).  Peter Boardman was sharing his Delhi experience. In August, 1976, he and Joe Tasker were on their way to make their epic climb of the West Wall of Changabang.

Changabang and kalanka from Deotoli Col. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee, September 2011

Welcome to our lives Peter. Glad, you had to deal with Delhi for a few days only. We are the ‘real Indians’ you see and we live in this muggy, smelly existence. And you know what? It is highly likely that the small children with little brothers and sisters that pulled at your clothes? Yes, those pathetic children, poorest of the poor, they may not be brothers or sisters at all! They were most probably borrowed accessories for the improvement of the art of begging by my fellow countrymen. Always rise for the higher cause. United in corruption, bound by the camaraderie of filth. This is my India today. Alas!

" A nation is advanced in proportion as education and intelligence spread among the masses. The chief cause of India's ruin has been the monopolizing of the whole education and intelligence of the land, by dint of pride and royal authority, among a handful of men. If we were to rise again,we shall have to do it in the same way, i.e. by spreading education among masses. "- Swami Vivekananda

I know, many or most of the western visitors to India, even today, go back to their lives of ‘quality living’ after a short spell of Delhi-Taj Mahal-Jaipur with  some version of the above image or other. I do not blame them. India is not a fast food joint. India is a richer, more complicated story. A bit more subtle than fish and chips and what usually meets ones eyes Peter! Please do not take "Slumdog Millionaire" the movie as the Gita! ( Well, I am glad you did not have to watch it in your times!) Surely, India is more than Chicken Tikka Masala, a butter Naan bread, a Bollywood movie and a Kingfisher Beer! 

By the way, where are you these days? Some of us miss your and Joe’s spirits and your super courageous mountaineering feats! You guys were awesome! Some say you guys vanished on Everest! I do not believe them. You guys are inspiration personified. You do not vanish into thin air! You exist, among many, or may be a handful; and you will be surprised- you live among some of us in this filthy, smelly, pathetic country too!

Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, pic courtesy: www.livefortheoutdoors.com

Wish you could spend a bit more time with us! You know what is more interesting? Delhi is way better! You should have checked out Calcutta! Humidity normally here is so high that one wishes deliverance in the shades of large banyan trees by the river Ganga. But even that wish seems outlandish most of the times these days now, for we have killed almost all of them. The wise old trees are out of our pathetic lives. Salvation is a mirage.

It is end of April and the damp,hazy heat of Kolkata has already reached its prime. Thendup appeared out of a state government run bus. He had been on that tin can for the past 16 hours. He boarded that apology of a long distance coach last evening in Siliguri. It should have been here in down town Kolkata (which the Bengalis so fondly call Esplanade) hours ago. But their driver had precious cargo to deliver door to door and hence the usual and the obvious happens- delay.

Eventually, you will get there and this too shall pass. The bus conductor have been pouring philosophy onto  his heat exhausted yet patient passengers. Surely Thendup looked untouched by the viscous flow of fluid philosophy of the bus conductor. He had all the calm and cool of a hidden glacier. And at that moment, amid all the chaos, above the cacophony of the deafening noise; we both knew it is time to pack our bags again. To the mountains, to the Himalaya, I hummed! The heat, the dust, smoke, noise, people around me did not matter any more. We are off to Kumaun Himalaya, to the sanctuary of the blessed Goddess herself! Nanda Devi's sister summit Sunanda Devi (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunanda_Devi) beckons! Some one told us she is kinder than her elder sister! Less harsh, more welcoming and forgiving. She is more like my mother's sister who can never see anything bad in me and was always loving, caring and gentle. Well, we can only hope and pray!

Goddesses Nanda and Sunanda : http://nainitalgoddess.blogspot.in/2012/11/the-rightful-recognition-of-nanda-devi.html

Nanda Devi 7816m as seen from Deotoli Col over and above the Devisthan ridge. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee, Sep 2011

Oh, we pathetic Bengalis! We do not lose an opportunity to attach our earthly sentiments even to a ruthless mountain such as Nanda Devi East! But pray we shall and pray we must, for famous mountaineers have declared this mountain to be formidable. To reach its top at 7434m, one needs to climb more vertical meters compared to the summit of Everest from its base camp and the only established route by its south ridge is a  lot more technical and demanding climb. No wonder, Tenzing Norgay had declared it to be the most difficult that he had ever done! Many expeditions ( both past and as recent as 2009 and 2012) have failed to even go beyond the Longstaff's Col, or should I say the Nanda Devi Khal.

Sunanda Devi 7434m and its south ridge

Tom Longstaff in his usual boldness had climbed the Nanda Devi Khal back in 1905 and following his clue the daring Poles did the first ascent of Sunanda Devi in 1939. Here is list of expeditions that happened after that:

1939- Polish first ascent
1951- French ( Tenzing Norgay was part of this)
1975- Indo-French
1976-Indo-Jap ( in both '75 and '76 my climbing guru Dorjee Lhatoo summitted Sunanda Devi)
1991- Indo-Rus
1992-Border Security Force
1994-Spanish ( '91 to '94- all very large expeditions- responsible for leaving enormous litter along the south ridge)
1995- Indian-American ( responsible for cleaning a lot of litter left by the previous parties)

And then happened the most spectacular of climb on Sunanda Devi. In 1995, Roger Payne and Julie-Ann Clyma did a truly Longstaff style ascent of the south ridge. Surely their feat is yet to be matched or repeated by any in the Himalayan scene.

There have been a few more large and medium sized expeditions after Roger Payne and Julie-Ann's climb. The Spanish in 2005, Poles and Brits again in 2009. All failed. The only striking and significant attemp in the post Roger Payne era, would be Pete Takeda's light weight and fast attack on the south ridge (2005). Read about the exciting reports of Pete's expedition here: http://www.seattlepi.com/local/article/Proof-of-plutonium-in-climber-s-sample-1232287.php

I personally got inspired by Roger Payne and Julie-Ann's climb and their style. Our effort in this upcoming expedition is to pay our humble tribute to Roger Payne. I am sure Sunanda Devi was not happy when she heard of that stupid avalanche off Mt Maudit!

Roger Payne: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/roger-payne-killed-on-mont-maudit-ed-douglas-looks-back-on-his-life

Mt Maudit in foreground centre right. Mt Blanc behind as seen from top of Mt Blanc du tacul. Pic. Anindya Mukherjee, July 2011

When I say 'we', I mean 4 climbers, 2 climbing sherpas. They are Ananth HV from Bangalore, Suman Guhaneogy from Chandannagar, Alok Das from Kolkata, Thendup Sherpa  and Temba Sherpa from Darjeeling and Anindya Mukherjee from Belurmath, Howrah.

We have a tiny budget, very little time, some experience. We are ready. Our train leaves Kolkata on May 1, 2013. Wish us luck. Pray for our safety and success!

To sum it up again: small expedition, humble tribute to the spirit of Roger Payne and a simple message: NO DESTRUCTIVE DAMS IN THE HIMALAYA~

Welcome UTTARBANGA SAMBAD: Expedition Partner of Nanda Devi East 2013

Nanda Devi East Expedition team is thrilled, delighted to welcome "UTTARBANGA SAMBAD"  as their expedition partner. "UTTARBANGA SAMBAD" is the largest circulated Bengali Newspaper of North Bengal and growing. 

This support from 'UTTARBANGA SAMBAD' has come at a  point when we were beginning to worry about reaching the optimum figure. Therefore, thank you so much 'UTTARBANGA SAMBAD'! The team is indebted!

Nanda Devi East, May 2013 Expedition is a very small budget expedition comprising of only 4 Indian mountaineers. We were hoping to raise the required fund by paying from our pockets and that we are doing. But in spite of our best efforts in emptying our savings accounts (which some of us do not have) there remained a substantial deficit. 

We all understand fully well, that all the sponsorship in the field of sports in India, goes to cricket. And a very select few who sympathize with and promote adventure sports; would rather pay for someone going to Mt. Everest. For them it does not matter if their sponsored climber is joining another commercial expedition- a packaged mountaineering travel program. The style, difficulty, quality, purity of mountaineering does not matter to them. 

The total budget of our expedition is equivalent to a single Everest aspirant's personal clothing and gear. 4 of us struggled to pay for that even. And here was UBS to our rescue! Thank God! Some one out there still believes in the real charms, challenges and the true spirit of mountaineering. 

Here is a comparative study of their circulation and readership with other dailies that are based in Kolkata.

And here is a map of the 6 districts of West Bengal where Uttarbanga Sambad is published and circulated.

For those who can read Bengali but do not reside in North Bengal, can also read Uttarbanga Sambad online here: http://www.uttarbangasambad.com/

Prelude to Nanda Devi East Expedition 2013: Part II

(Read Part I of this story here:
http://nanda-devi-east.blogspot.in/2013/04/prelude-to-nanda-devi-east-expedition.html)

Part II

The River

“Stop flattering me to cover up your inertness, you oaf. I know what I truly am-a lost individual rushing through her Karma to get back her individuality. Or should it be universality? Do you know what that is? The ocean. That is my origin, culmination and true identity. But these are deep things which you will never understand. Stuck in one place, you don’t even know what the ocean is. Nor do you know the peak from which I descend to attain my identity."

So said the river to the tree in ‘Param’, a book by ‘Samarpan’.  But looks like no one but the tree was listening, at least not us the human beings. 

The river and the tree, Sundarban. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee

India has been an independent country for the last 66 years. It is the seventh largest country in the world. The second most populous country and the most populous democracy in the world! 

Some say our economy is the 10th largest by nominal GDP and the 3rd largest by the Purchasing Power Parity. No matter how huge that may sound, the fact is, after all these years, we have not been able to bring social justice. We have not been able to feed every mouth. We have not been able to build shelter over each family. We have not been able to build enough schools or even eradicate malnutrition. Why? Well many of the failures will route to this fact that we have not been able to wipe out corruption from our system. At all! 

Like an irreversible carcinoma it has been spreading, seeping deep through all the layers of society. Fine, we understand. Unity in diversity, they say in school text books. True, such diversity we have, geographical, social, linguistic, religious, cultural, political. Yet, rising above all, there is unity in one thing- corruption. We have not been able to clean the mess. And it seems like it is getting worse by the day.  Is there even an intention? Has there ever been any? No, in spite of promises, the garbage keeps piling up.

Only one place remained untouched, unscathed. The Himalaya. The ultimate pilgrimage for millions of Indians for centuries. It meditated in bliss oblivious of the heinous acts plaguing its plains among the populace. Could it be that the pained screams were heard by the high mountains of the snows? Could it be that this made even the abode of the snow sad and sorry? We do not know. 

And, then they had to plant a nuclear powered listening device on one of the most significant mountains in the Indian Himalaya- Nanda Devi (7816m). Of course, how could they leave the mighty Himalaya out of their dirty politics? 

Nanda Devi from the Deotoli Col. Photo: Anindya Mukherjee, where is Deotoli Col?  Visit this link: http://aaj.americanalpineclub.org/climbs-and-expeditions/asia/india/uttaranchal/2011-dudh-ganga-col-5350m-and-deotoli-col-5400m-first-ascents-by-anindya-mukherjee-india/

Since then, we keep coming across many versions of their story on how they managed to lose a plutonium powered device high up Nanda Devi (1965) and then came the sudden closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary (1982). The naughty nuclear affair was admitted in the parliament by politicians . But the official reason for closing down the sanctuary back then and still is the word -‘conservation’! But of course, they are politicians right? How much truthfulness can one expect from them anyway? 

" Conservation", when one hears this word, feels positive about it. After all our ravaging, come let us conserve it. Man, this sounds so righteous! Righteous, yet ridiculous and contradictory! Why? Well, if you have something closed, conserved, protected; then why let big military expeditions go in there in regular intervals? Are they carrying Geiger counters along with their train of porters and helicopter drops of food? 

Secondly, if the Himalayan ecology is so fragile, why give permission to build dams right along the edges of the sanctuary. Destructive dams, erasing history, culture, nature once and for all. Where is your righteous 'conservation' now? Guys you are putting the term 'pork barrel politics' to shame! 

I am sure not everyone will agree that dam building has few redeeming qualities. Some people would mention flood control for urban areas, a commonly used excuse for constructing dams. But does an upstream dam really protect the floodplain of a river from flooding? Do we really have many dammed rivers that have not also had flooding disasters downstream? Do dams simply delay the economic disasters of major floods rather than prevent them forever? Ask the people downstream who have survived a broken dam if the trauma was worth the protection offered against a few years of minor flooding. Is the protection-from-flooding feature attributed to river dams simply another public acceptance without objective evaluation of the true worth?

Reconsidering the whole process associated with constructing river dams would be healthy. Should we stop building any more and even remove a few already in place? After all, removing some dams would create jobs, not to mention making for healthier river ecosystems.

I feel it is about time they should open up the Nanda Devi Sanctuary for mountaineers, trekkers and Himalaya lovers. I am 41. Like many mountaineers across the globe, I am being denied of the chance to visit one of the most amazing places on this earth. 

Will they open it in my lifetime? Well, if they do, even as a regulated group of expeditions and treks in the sanctuary, will put an end to poaching and illegal picking of the yarsagumba ( caterpillar fungus). Will they? Doubtful. 

Well, you can keep your secrets in your radiation proof bureaucracy. Do us one favour. Stop building destructive dams in the Himalaya for a change.

Gori Ganga pic. Sukanta Deb Mandal

Expedition Poster: Nanda Devi East

Less than a month from now, our team of 4 Indian mountaineers, 2 Climbing Sherpa, and 3 support staff will leave for the Kumaun Himalaya. We will make a lightweight, semi alpine style attempt on the famed and formidable south ridge of Nanda Devi East, 7434m.

Details and updates of the expedition will keep appearing on this blog. Today we are sharing our expedition poster here. This poster shows our route up the south ridge. It also includes our statement- "SAVE HIMALAYA FROM DESTRUCTIVE DAMS". We will of course elaborate on this in future posts.

Prelude to Nanda Devi East Expedition 2013 :Part I

The Award

It was late March and it was yet another hot and humid evening in the suburb of Belur Math in West Bengal. The heat, along with the smoke and dust was in their prohibitive best. On top of that, the humidity was making sure that it takes away enough juice out of me, without wasting any time. A slow, poisonous spell of lethargy was spreading all around. What a climate to live in! To think in an extremely healthy sense of humour, I could wink and say, well, at least, we don’t need to visit a sauna or pay for a steam bath you see! No wonder Bengalis are born intellectuals! Though I personally think it has made us more subnormal than sublime.

I was born here by the river Ganga, a name which the British with their stiff upper lips could never rightly pronounce. I mean, how could they call it ‘Ganges’ for God’s sake? I understand making ‘Kolkata’ sound like ‘Calcutta’; but ‘Ganges’? Come On!

The Ganga. I took my first swimming lessons in it, played soccer by its banks and over the past 10 years have seen the place change and transform into an ugly, unplanned concrete hell and the river turn into a gutter. I hate this place, I do not like the way things have turned out here in the name of development. Yet, this is where I belong. Every time, after spending months in the Himalaya, I long to come back here. I still do. Strange as though it may seem sometimes!

What is it that draws me back here? Is it my attachment towards my family, my parents? That and that only? Or, does my root of a lower middle class Bengali have something to do with it in addition? I guessed and I wondered.

That evening, I was coming out of my dentist’s chamber after yet another long session of a root canal treatment. Pain and anaesthetics were having their own conversation and I was lost in my arguments around this existence. No matter how much I tried to focus my thoughts on the upcoming expeditions-their planning and logistics; my mind wanted to stay back in a lethargic cave. It was then my phone rang.

It was a call from Rajesh Gadgil. Rajesh, a mountaineer based in Mumbai, is a warm, enthusiastic, down to earth and confident person to talk to. Anytime, anywhere. He is also the Honorary Editor of the Himalayan Journal. It was a pleasant surprise to get his call after a not so pleasant session in the dentist’s chamber.

What’s up? He asked in his usual jovial manner and spirit. I tried but, could not sound even half as positive as Rajesh while replying. Rajesh broke the news! Boss, this is not the time to feel low, you should be making preparations for other things! You have won the first Jagdish Nanavati Award for Excellence in Mountaineering! You have to come to Mumbai on 30^th March for the award function! 

See link:  (http://www.himalayanclub.org/news/first-jagdish-nanavati-awards/)

Wow! I was speechless for a few moments and wanted to remain so for some time I guess. Cherish this moment in silence rather than shout and celebrate out loud! Being loud is just not me! I have always been a little reserved when it came to expressing elation! And this award is like reaching a Himalayan summit, you are happy, but not celebrating yet as you still have to get back down safely to the base camp. 

Yes indeed, our research, planning, team effort and all the hard work to reach the 'impregnable' Zemu Gap' from south is recognized! I do not climb mountains for awards and accolades, but this form and gesture of recognition seemed nice at that very moment and that made me smile in silence! What could be a better prelude to Nanda Devi East than this? Indeed the Lord is kind!

But, silence is something  that would not happen then, as on the phone on the other side already was Nandini Purandare, the Honoray Secretary of the Himalayan Club, breaking the news to me in a more elaborate manner followed by the indomitable Divyesh Muni and then the legendary Harish Kapadia himself. Words of congratulations flowed freely. Man, this is serious, I thought, while trying to find the right words to reply. After the phone calls, I wanted to grab a beer somewhere but quickly remembered that my dentist have prohibited me from eating or even drinking for the next one hour. #@!! ~!##)(

Right after the phone calls were over,walking down the street to my home, I felt this award is a solemn and timely reminder of humility that we learn from the Himalaya and have just reinforced my beliefs in going to the mountains without bravado, with safety and knowledge. Why so? Well, just for the simple and singular reason of the name Jagdish C. Nanavati should explain it all, at least to the Indian mountaineering community. And exactly that is what makes this award so special and distinctive! 

( link to the first JCN Award: http://www.himalayanclub.org/jagdish-nanavati-award-for-excellence-in-mountaineering/ )

I felt thankful to the distinguished Jury, the Himalayan Club, and of course the Nanavati family for instituting this award for Indian mountaineering expeditions. I am sure this is going to be the most coveted award for all serious mountaineers of India in the coming years. I have just become part of that history by being the first ever recipient of it. Amazing!  I am inspired, encouraged, humbled, indebted!

Jagdish Nanavati 1928-2011
About JCN: http://www.thebmc.co.uk/jagdish-nanavati-1928-2011

It was then I decided to dedicate this award. This award is not mine. It belongs to the man without whom I may have never ventured out to the mountains! I decided to dedicate my first award in the field of mountaineering to my uncle, Sujal Mukherjee. Sujal was a West Bengal mountaineer who took part in 25 Himalayan expeditions starting 1965 to 1989. He left this world in a bit of hurry in 1994, at the age of 62 only. I miss him. I knew his and Jagdish Nanavati’s spirits would be shaking hands tonight.

Me with my Uncle Sujal Mukherjee in 1973 during a family trek in Garhwal

Before closing this post I must also add that the award included a cash prize of Rs. 51000/. This indeed came as a blessing, a helping hand to our upcoming project on Nanda Devi East (7434m) as we are still struggling to get enough funds for our semi alpine style, light weight attempt on the south ridge of the famous and formidable mountain of Kumaun Himalaya. 

Any help is welcome, and we will try our best to reciprocate our kind donors/sponsors with photographs/ write ups/ blogs/facebook as necessary and as applicable. We leave Kolkata on May 1, 2013.